Start of an Italian Affair

Language can be like meeting strangers at a function - at first stumbling and awkward but becoming easier as you relax and become familiar. We had settled into French then German but now struck Italian for the first time on this trip and were uncomfortable. We stayed in a small village at a very pleasant family run guesthouse and we were the only foreigners. One of the family spoke a little English and he became our minder. We got on well. We had chosen this location for its proximity to the Stelvio Pass to the north and Lake Como to the south.

On a warm sunny Sunday we set sail for Lake Como. This is a place where we had stayed in 2010 but the weather had been so very hot and humid that a haze hung over the lake like a blanket and we had been a bit disappointed. We were giving her a second chance. On this sunny holiday Sunday every Italian from the south was seeking relief from the heat and a suntan at the Lake. They filled the roads and hung off every rock and shoreline like ants at a picnic. The Italians have to be the world's greatest exponents at car cramming into impossible parking spaces. They jammed into every void along the road. Scantily clad young females buzzed about 2 up on their scooters and the macho men blapped through the congested traffic in board shorts on their Ducatis. It was sensory overload. We enjoyed lunch with an icy Granita  along the shore at Lecco and then battled our way up to Bellagio for a Gelati and possible sighting of George Clooney, one of Bellagio's more famous residents. Alas George was not to be seen but the Gelati was great.

Late afternoon, still hot, we were preparing to reboard the bike when two Spanish riders sought directions. Why approach a couple of Aussies on an obviously Australian bike ? They spoke a little English but no Italian. We were their only hope amongst a sea of Italians who had taken a severe dislike to anything Spanish - the Spanish had just beaten the Italians in the European Football Final so Spaniards were not the flavour of the month. Fortunately we were able to assist and they were on their way to St Moritz.

We departed Bellagio first heading to Como and then north along the western shore of the Lake and eventually home. In future years we will remember this as one of our great bike adventures. The traffic was dense but the antics of the drivers and riders were unbelievable. You could pay to watch a stunt show and not be as well entertained. We pulled into a roadside trattoria at Tremezzo for an early evening plate of pasta but mainly to take a last look over the Lake and watch the traffic. So what are our thoughts of Lake Como ? Yes, we saw it in a much better light and it has magnificent natural beauty. Our fear is that the Lake is getting loved to death. It would be nice to see it with snow on the mountains, maybe another time.

Monday was Stelvio Day. Riders and drivers talk of the Stelvio Pass and its 47 hairpin turns in almost reverent terms. Our plan was to tackle the pass from the less popular Bormio side  early before it got congested and then descend via the much vaunted 47 bends to the north. If we enjoyed the experience then we would turn around and complete the exercise in the opposite direction. Well our plan worked on the ascent. Very tight in places we were competing for space with cyclists but there were few cars to block our passage. We hit the summit (at 2760 metres one of the highest road passes) took our photos, enjoyed coffee and a browse through the maze of tourist shops then prepared for the descent. The bends are tight, very tight. If you had the road to yourself then you could enjoy it but the reality is different. Pick a line and then have to adjust as a cyclist/biker/car/motorhome blocked the bend. It was hard work. Its a Pass that you have to do to add a feather to your cap but give us the Swiss Passes for riding pleasure. Did we turn around and ride it in reverse. No, we had enough and sought out roads less traveled.

Stelvio sits near the Italian/Austrian/Swiss borders so there are many riding choices. We stopped for lunch at a gem of a little village, Glorenza. This village is still in Italy but very Germanic as it is so close to the Swiss/Austrian borders and was no doubt part of Austria at some stage in its history. Many parts of the village have been restored and others are in the process of restoration. Get there before the tourist buses discover it. We then crossed into Switzerland for the magnificent Ofenpass (Paso dal Fuorn) and then back to Italy via the one-way toll tunnel and into the tax free haven of Livigno. This place is an enigma. It lies in a remote valley tucked high up near the Swiss border but it somehow enjoys tax free status even though it is part of Italy. Try super petrol at 1.11/litre compared to 1.80 + in the rest of Italy. Needless to say there are lots of designer gear and sporting goods shops. It is all a bit glitzy however and full of tourists with equally full shopping bags.

The day had been fine but there was a build-up of cloud around the mountains. As we prepared to leave we both jumped with the loudest clap of thunder and lightning strike that we had ever heard. Power failed, people ran out into the street and onto balconies to see what had happened. We chose discretion and adjourned for a coffee to settle the nerves and wait for the weather to take its course. Out of Livogno and its valley and back into Switzerland for a great run down the Bernina Pass back into Italy and home. The storm that had struck at Livogno hung around the mountains and was still rumbling with light rain when we left the next morning. Before long the wet gear was put away and we crossed Passo di Aprica, Passo del Tonale, Passo Predaia, Passo Pordoi and finally the Passo di Campolongo down into the little Alpine Village of Corvara in the Dolomite Mountains, our home for the next four nights.

Switzerland

If you study the geography of Switzerland you will understand that no journey is a simple case of joining A to B via a direct route. Despite the construction of (seemingly) hundreds of tunnels throughout the country, any journey must be planned around high mountains, deep valleys and endless lakes. After the exhilaration of the passes we settled for an 'easier' day to explore some of the more populated north of the country. This first involved us heading east over the Susten pass that we had traversed in the wet the previous evening. On that glorious sunny morning we were able to enjoy all of the sublime pleasures offered by its long sweeping corners, and tight hairpin bends. An absolute joy.

At Wassen we turned north towards Altdorf and then East again along the steepest valley we had traversed. This was spectacular riding. The road was quite narrow in places but lightly trafficked. We hung on the hillsides with near vertical drops to the valley floor hundreds of feet below. This is farming country so you need to be aware of farm vehicles and the debris on the road where cattle cross the road. The road leads over another pass, Klausen at 1952 metres. Jane is keeping count. As is sometimes the case on these passes there is a beautiful little roadside chapel for the traveler to take comfort.

Once out of the valley we swung north again to Glarus and a diversion up a narrow road to a beautiful Lake Klontaler that our host Mike had recommended. A great place for lunch at the Gastof beside the lake. We returned to the main 17 road north and almost immediately the country flattened - we were out of the Alps. We  entered the more densely populated and commercial hub of the country centered around the major city of Zurich. The civic and domestic architecture also changed for it lost that rustic timbered style that we have admired. Our focus was the lakeside town of Rapperswill on the northern shore of the Obersee. The historic section of the town has been preserved, there is a beautiful Church and attractive shaded lakeside with pleasure cruises on the lake. It is a type of mini Luzern but missing the steep mountains. We crossed a causeway over the Obersee and pointed the bike for home. The day had been hot and all of our jacket linings had been removed but this was reversed when we ran into a heavy early evening storm. It certainly broke the heat.

Mike had arranged a day off work on Friday, our last full day in Switzerland so he could show us some less traveled roads on his R1200R BMW. Angie would have joined us on her Honda Crossrunner but it was getting repaired after collecting a falling rock - a bit of a Swiss riding hazard not unlike Kangaroos in Australia and equally dangerous. Unfortunately the weather was not playing the game so we deferred to a mid morning start under grey skies with a light drizzle. As we tracked east past Interlaken towards Spiez the weather cleared and we ventured into the countryside not normally visited by tourists. This was rural Switzerland, very green, picturesque and relaxed. You can't travel Switzerland however without crossing passes and this day was no exception but with a twist. As we ascended towards the Gerendacherli pass we entered cloud under a light drizzle. The red taillight on Mike's BMW was barely visible at about 20 feet so thick was the cloud. At the summit in true understated fashion Mike announced that there was a magnificent view of the lake and mountains from here - apparently. We descended to the Schwarzee (or Black Lake) and dined at the rather inappropriately named Hotel Bad on its shore.

As we turned for home the cloud thickened and the skies opened in what had become a bit of an afternoon Swiss tradition for us. We had been invited to dinner and Angie prepared a traditional Swiss meal for our 'last supper'. Good food, good company, a few beers and talk of the days (and weeks) riding. A great night and deserving a special thanks to our wonderful hosts Angie & Mike who made our stay in Switzerland so enjoyable. Their house affords terrific views across the mountains and a waterfall, it is well placed in relation to Interlaken and Andermatt and is an ideal base for any bikers wanting to explore this beautiful country. Contact us for details if you are planning to visit Switzerland.

We departed Saturday with the Grey Ghost once again assuming her role as a beast of burden. We traversed Susten and Oberalp passes heading north-east but at a subdued pace with the extra 40kg of luggage on board. It was  a brilliant bright day and seemingly everyone who owned a bike was out and about. At Chur we turned south over the Julier and Bernina Passes to the millionaires playground of St Moritz. As we dropped down into the valley we were greeted by the sight of kite surfers on the lake. They looked like a hundred colored flies descending on a picnic lunch. In St Moritz we expected plenty of flash cars, outfits, jewellery and designer boutiques and in those respects we were not disappointed. But St Moritz still maintains its natural and artificial attractions and we enjoyed the beauty of its setting by the lake, its Architecture and an impromptu practice session from musicians playing the traditional Swiss long horns by the lake.

From here it was a short run across the border into Italy and our home for the next few days in the Bormio Valley. Farewell to Switzerland you have been wonderful.

 

Switzerland - The Mountain Passes

Think of Switzerland and your thoughts inevitably contain images of steep snow capped mountains and clean deep green lakes. Many of those mountains have been traversed by man and beast for centuries with the high passes growing from foot trails to paved roads. In more recent times the industrious Swiss have tunneled through the mountains to reduce travel times thus leaving the high mountain passes to motorcyclists and their lycra clad cycling cousins. This is motorcycling nirvana at its best.

We had come to Switzerland to bag some of those passes. We set out early on a clear mild morning heading east to Innertkirchen at the junction of the Susten and Grimsel Pass roads. We chose the Grimsel as it heads south thus avoiding the rising sun. Before long we are climbing on a series of switchback roads with virtually no traffic. You get into a groove and the corners just flow. Towards the top of the pass we enter into cloud but when we reach the summit it begins to dissipate. One pass bagged, Grimsel 2164 metres. All the time Jane has been snapping away with the camera at snow covered peaks, twisting roads and pristine lakes. There is still plenty of ice up at the summit as well as a part frozen lake. In spite of this the temperature for riding is near perfect. The descent is just as much fun as the ascent as we flow through the corners with the motor just purring. Some sections of the road are seemingly suspended in mid air out from the mountain face - testament to man's ability to form concrete to whatever shape he requires.

We hit a junction and turn north-east to Furkapass which at 2436 metres is the highest in the immediate region. Can this be better than Grimsel - seemingly yes but the corners have now become a blur and you are laughing inside your helmet at the sheer unadulterated pleasure of it all. The traffic has remained light as if we have been blessed on this day. We cruise into Andermatt exhilarated and satiated - it is only 8.15am and we need a caffeine hit.

Andermatt is at the epicenter of the Susten, Grimsel, Furka, St Gotthard and Oberalp Passes and is rightly a home base for many international bikers and bike tour companies. On this day many groups are just getting readied for the days endeavors. As we sip our coffees we can smirk with satisfaction that we have already plundered some of these roads while others dallied over morning chores.

We head south again out of town and bypass the turning to Furkapass in pursuit of St Gotthard Pass and the road south to Italy. At 2091metres it is one of the lower passes but it presents a spectacular vista down the valley to the town of Airolo from a viewing point just below the summit. From this point south the (German) Switzerland we had been enjoying becomes (Italian) Switzerland as if a giant hard had just drawn down a curtain across the countryside. The Architecture, language and signage is all Italian. Later in the week we will experience more of the (French) Switzerland which all adds so much interest to this country. We descend to Airolo then choose the old cobblestoned road to ascend the pass back to the north. Surprisingly we find cyclists using this rough cobblestoned road which is masochistic on an unsprung cycle. Roadworks put paid to our fun about one third up so we cross to the newer paved road and head back over the top returning to Andermatt for another well earned coffee. This time we swing East after Andermatt across the Oberalp Pass and are treated to expansive views over Andermatt as we ascend. This is another great ascent rewarded with the spectacle of a Lighthouse at its summit. This is the World's highest lighthouse and has been put here by the Swiss as a way of marking this area as the headwaters of the river Rhine. At 2046 metres there is little ice remaining up here.

After the descent we again turn south over the lowest of the passes, Lukmanier at 1920 Metres. The descent from this pass takes us to within 30 kms of the Italian border before we turn north again over St Gotthard pass (for the third time) over the new road and through Andermatt in the direction of home via the last pass of the day, Susten pass. At this time our glorious day starts to turn sour as the rain sets in. Susten pass is at 2224 metres and it still has some deep snow and ice drifts so we rug up against the chill. The rain has its side benefit however as most traffic has diverted to the motorway and we are left to play on our own. The approach to Susten pass from the east along the valley wall is via a long section of free flowing S bends with good viewing lines and even with the wet roads it is an absolute joy to ride. We will have the pleasure of doing this section later in the week in the dry and it is arguably one of the best 'high speed' sections of any of the passes we covered.

We arrived home wet, tired but very happy. We have 'bagged' six passes and crossed eight in total. This was the best riding day we have had on the trip and I would defy anyone to come up with a better days riding anywhere in the world.

Au Revoir France, Hallo Switzerland

Our last night in France for this part of our journey was in the town of St Gervais-les-Bains. We had left the Route des Grande Alpes at Cluses for a shot at the Col du Grand St Bernard beside Mont Blanc. It was a shock to the system to be confronted with heavy city traffic after the past week in the Alps. We had intended to drop our gear at the guesthouse and then get up the pass in the late afternoon but heavy traffic and a closed guesthouse (hostess was out) put paid to those plans.

Next morning, Saturday, we set out early for an 'easy' crossing into Switzerland and a climb up the Col in fine warm weather. Traffic was slow as we went through Chamonix Mont-Blanc and we were interested to see signs and runners advising of the Mont Blanc Marathon (Tony is a 'retired' Marathon runner). We started up a series of steep switchback turns outside Argentiere near the Swiss border and confronted traffic at a standstill. The road was very narrow and there was sporadic traffic coming down. Crawling past the traffic up this road on the fully laden Gray Ghost was hard work on the bike and rider. Now Switzerland is not part of the EU so we assumed that Border security or an accident was the problem. Not so. When we eventually worked our way to the front of the queue here were 2 young female Gendamerie stopping all of the traffic while some very, very slow Swiss 'Marathon runners' (walkers) made their way across the road at a snails pace. Traffic was backed up for miles in both directions. Ridiculous.

We got down to the border expecting a passport check  but were just waived through. At the first service station on the Swiss side we purchased our 12 month vignette (road tax) sticker that entitles us to use the network of National roads. At 40 francs it is a high cost as we are only here for a week but that is their system. It is a bit rude that the Gray Ghost is charged the same as all vehicles up to 3.5T. She may be a bit porky with her holiday load but nowhere near 3.5T.

Now in Switzerland and enjoying fine weather we begin the long climb up the Grand St Bernard Pass. The roads are magnificent due in part to the vignette contributions. This National Road 21 is a major passage between Italy and Switzerland via the St Bernard Tunnel. We divert from the 21 just before the tunnel and the road immediately gets tighter and deteriorates as we ascend the Col. This is the place for Bikers and there are plenty here. It is an exhilarating ride and a great introduction and expectation of what is to come over the next week. The pass itself has a lot more of interest than the mandatory photo at the Col summit sign. There is a Hospice and chapel that continues the work started by St Bernard in the 11th century to provide assistance to travelers. The St Bernard dog breed was created here in the 17th century and there is no shortage of stuffed replicas of all sizes at the gift shops. We ride the extra hundred metres from the hospice into Italy to complete three countries before morning coffee - France, Switzerland, Italy.
Back down to Martigny then up to Montreaux for our first look at a Swiss Lake, Lake Geneva, and a glimpse of the Chateau de Chillon on its Eastern shore. This Chateau is Switzerlands most visited Historic landmark but we have other plans. The roads are in top condition but the throttle hand must be kept in check - Switzerlands open road speed limit is 80kph apart from the E roads (motorways) and some limited (marked) sections of National roads that are 100kph.

Our home for the next week is a self-contained 'flat' in the small village of Brienzwiler about 30 minutes East of Interlaken. Our hosts, Angie & Mike, have invited us for dinner and also done some shopping for us so no need to rush. Their home is beautiful with views across the mountains and a waterfall - we couldn't have asked for more. Angie and Mike as long time Swiss residents and Bikers, are a font of information on the weather for the week and the best roads to ride. The first advice is that Sunday will be the worst day weather wise so an early decision is taken to have an easy day - shopping for groceries, washing, bike maintenance. A day like this is needed every so often on a long trip, as much for ourselves to rejuvinate as for the chores of life to be undertaken.Monday is still showery and the passes will be wet so we opt for a run up to Luzern to play tourists. It is a very 'pretty' city set on the shores of Lake Luzern (not the local name) and the Reuss River. The water in the Swiss Lakes is green, a magnificent deep green. One could spend hours just looking at them. Luzern treads a fine line between an old & modern city and maintaining a city character that does not fall irrevocably into a tourist trap. The buildings in the old city are diverse in style and character and they all have a life without being museum pieces. The Jesuit Church on the River bank has a stunning interior and the multiple pedestrian bridges across the Reuss add further character to the city. There is a large and modern Art Gallery on the lake shore and a dynamic central railway station. But what attracts most tourists to Luzern is its beautiful Lake and iconic paddle steamers. There is a steady stream of boats arriving and departing the multiple docks and we join the queue for a short trip on a very modern cruise launch. The commentary provides a brief history of the city as well as painting a picture of some of the characters and folklore surrounding the Lake and its shoreline.

Next day with prediction of further wet weather we head down to the tourist mecca of Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald and the Trummelbach Falls. People flock from all over the world here for the train or cablecar rides up the mountains for a look at the peak of JungfrauJoch Mountain. On this day with low cloud we stay at ground level but enjoy a ride in a vehnicular cable car through the centre of the mountain to witness the water plummeting through the Trummelbach Falls. This is loud, wet and thoroughly enjoyable. In the afternoon we head north in pursuit of some oil and a filter for the Gray Ghost from Angie & Mike's preferred BMW dealer at Ebnet. The 'interesting' way to get there is across the appropriately named Panoramastrasse. This narrow country road ascends a mountain peak that on this day is about 300 metres above cloudline. What a ride.

When we get to the dealer late in the day I pass across my hand written German note with what I require (isn't Google translation great). The young mechanic who reads my note can speak some English and kindly offers to do the oil & filter change while I wait as well as checking the torque on the wheels that had received their new tyres. Excellent service.Another very enjoyable day in Switzerland but still no Passes. Wednesday promises better weather and our best chance. Stay tuned.