The B&B is set in a quiet hamlet out of Wissen with three access roads - the direct route into Wissen, a tight climb up the hill behind or a beautiful road meandering along the valley floor. Unfortunately at this time of year (any time of year?) the (not so) efficent German Department of Road Works closes roads without concern for road users. Following a GPS route we would often be confronted with a taped over direction sign, then a physical barrier but with no detour in place. Without detailed road maps of the area this often lead to adventure riding down very narrow farm roads looking for a way around the blockage. Other times we ignored the roadblock and were able to escape through the road works. Good fun on the GS but more of a handful for Peter on the K1600. These minor problems aside the area provides some great riding through undulating rural Germany visiting medieval villages as well as larger cities and the mighty river Rhine.
One of our first ride outs took us to the Motorrad & Technik -Westerwald Museum. This is very much a working museum with the owners AGNES and GERHARD WELLER still dedicated to restoring vintage and veteran motorcycles, especially the BMW brand. AS the boys pored over the motorcycles the girls were kept busy exploring all curios and household devices from bygone days in the Westerwald. It is a very interesting place and a 'must see' for any BMW buff.
We hooked up with a local biker, Michael and his wife Martina, who showed us the way around his favorite bike haunts on his Honda CB1000F. A German, an Englishman and an Australian - there has to be a joke there somewhere? One stop was at Die Alte Schule (The Old School) a popular eatery and meeting place for local bikers. There was an amazing collection of bikes from very trick outfits to post war classics and post classic Japanese fare. As an example there were three other six cylinder bikes as well as Peter's BM - a Honda Goldwing, Honda CBX and Kawasaki Z1300. The owner rides a Harley outfit. Another 'interesting' venue was Elmore's - an open air factory by the river that has been converted into a Bar. The 'interest' lies in the owner, a transvestite, who has decorated the area with some weird and wonderful gadgets, gizmo's and artwork. It is not possible to describe in words. The clientele ranges from people of a similar persuasion to family groups, bikers and the well heeled.
The B&B caters for a lot of British Bikers and we were also able to include other guests during different ride outs - Andy & Ange on their GSA and Richie & Julie on their Harley. Our travels took us to the local towns of Steinebach, Linz, Hachenberg, Limburg, Westerburg and the larger city of Bonn. A common theme was the beautiful half-timbered Architecture that we had admired in the Harz, some magnificent Churches and Cathedrals, museums of every ilk and German pastry shops. The narrow roads were generally lightly trafficked but often slowed by farm vehicles or animals. On that score we got to see our first wild deer dart across the road.
We also took a trip up to see the Mohnesee Dam which is located between the Harz Mountains and the Westerwald. There is no remaining evidence on the dam wall of the damage inflicted by RAF bomber pilots during the famous Dambuster raids. The event is recorded on a simple plaque which notes various changes to the dam during its 100+ year history. Although a successful raid the damage wrought on the Ruhr Valley was mainly to agriculture and not the German War Machine that the Allies had hoped. It does however remain as one of the most daring and brave ventures of WW2.
Our 10 day stay at Vine Cottage was our longest outside of the Isle of Man. It is a beautiful part of Germany and a relaxed place to visit. The pace of riding is unlike the Harz or the Alps as the environment tempts you into a nice relaxed pace to drink in the rural smells and sounds. Spending it with friends was special and we also had the opportunity to mix with many others who contributed to the atmosphere.
