Provence to the Alps

We depart Apt late morning with the temperature standing at a very warm 33 C. We are both wearing Rev'It! jackets which have several open-able vented panels so conditions are OK when moving. Our chosen route along secondary D rated roads takes us amongst fields of lavender whose perfume saturates the air in the warm conditions. The mountain backdrops create some wonderful photo opportunities. Traffic is very light and we just drift through the bends without a care in the world.

At a distance we pick up a splash of aqua. As we draw nearer the full extent of the Lake de Sainte Croix comes into view. The colour could only be matched by the pristine waters of the Great Barrier Reef. The lake is our opening to the Grand Canyon du Verdon and a roller coaster ride along some of the most stunning roads we have ridden. The road hugs the mountainside high above the lake and the Verdon River. Sometimes there are edge barriers, sometimes not. Some places the road undercuts the cliff face, others places it cuts tunnels through the rock. In some places the road cuts back so severely on itself that the magenta colored route path on the GPS screen resembles a fat lady with her legs together - there is no gap.

The road is not crowded but there are a lot of bikes and fortunately only a few motorhomes. It is hard to see how they could negotiate some of the tight turns. Our home for the night is a converted stone farm building in the small village of Comps - sur - Artuby. The building dates from the mid 18th century but is now a very comfortable hotel. The area does however have the world's highest density of flies - we should have packed our cork hats. The village is surrounded by hills and boasts a few heritage listed stone churches as well as communal wash troughs. We enjoyed a walk around this very interesting village.

Our trip continues North and East. We are at an elevation of approx 800 metres but the temperature remains warm. We are still absorbing the grandeur of yesterdays ride when we enter the equally spectacular Gorge de Daluis and its brilliantly coloured mountain Lake de Castillon. In some ways the road through this Gorge is more spectacular than yesterday as half way along its route the geography changes starkly from white to chocolate coloured rock. No doubt students of geology will know all of the technical jargon behind this phenomenon but is is striking to observe. This gorge is less traveled than its predecessor so we do not encounter any motorhomes but the motorcycling fraternity are certainly aware of its existence. There are bikes everywhere and as the corners are so tight and the price of a mistake fatal then everyone is riding within their limits. The area is surrounded with renewable pine forests so we do encounter logging trucks but there are adequate passing points and the drivers seem very understanding.

 We break out of the Gorges at the sub-Alpine town of Guillaumes at an elevation of 850 metres. We have now joined the Route des Grande Alps. This network of connection roads which began its northward journey at the French Riviera town of Menton will take us all the way north to the shores of Lake Lausanne and the French border with Switzerland. We take a lunch break at a shaded cafe and observe what will become common place over the following few days - hordes of lycra clad cyclists. They are everywhere. The alps and the classic passes (Cols) are a magnet for them -it is for the same reasons that we are here.
Out of Guillaumes we commence our first major ascent towards the Col de La Cayolle at 2326 metres (higher than Mt Kosciuszko). We are competing for space on the road with the cyclists who are on their lung busting ascents. This is no place to be learning your riding technique on tight bends. Look through the hairpins, if clear of traffic take the full road. The fully laden Gray Ghost is down to first gear on some of the rising hairpins but she takes it all in her stride. A mandatory photo at the summit, then run down the other side. Absolutely exhilarating. Our stop for the night is a B&B in a Ski Village at Pra Laup. The owner has just installed a swimming pool with views across the mountains. What better way to finish a fantastic day of riding.

Aquitaine to Provence

The best way to experience a new area is to be guided by a local. Steve our B&B host brought out his immaculate Triumph Daytona to show us the better bike roads and villages around Aquitaine. It is good to have the load off the Gray Ghost as we follow Steve's clean lines on the Daytona. Sweeping bends through vineyards and fields of walnut, stone fruit, sunflowers broken by forays into the small villages dotted throughout the region. Jane and I dubbed this 'The Green Tuscany' as it reminded us so much of our travels through that region in 2010. The colors of the buildings and design set around a central square with Roman tile roofs is very reminiscent of Tuscany but this area is much greener than its Italian cousin. There are also many English expats in the region - either living or with holiday homes. Anglais is heard often in the area.

Next day we ventured into the historic town (city) of Perigueux. We have been told that a town becomes a city if it has a Cathedral. Perigueux boasts the magnificent Cathedral of Sainte Front. We arrived on Saturday morning - market day. The city square was filled with local produce from the sea, the fields and the paddocks of the region. A wonderful day was completed with an open air dinner for the Feast of St Jean in the main street of Lauzun.  As so often happens on our journey it is time to farewell our hosts Steve & Hazel with whom we have bonded so well over these few days. Until we meet again.

On the bike and on our way. Our journey takes us south to the Sacred City of Lourdes. Neither of us has any preconceptions of what to expect but we could not be this close and not visit. Tony's sister was named after St Bernadette of Lourdes so there is a family 'connection'. As we approach from the north through Tarbes the Pyrenees Mountains appear as if out of a mist. They are stunning. Even on this hot summers day the snow drifts on the peaks are prominent. They draw us in like moths to a flame. Lourdes is in the foothills of the mountains and the approach to the city is impressive but once inside we have mixed feelings. There is a conga line of wheelchairs being pushed towards the shrine by white draped nurses - the aged, the sick, the infirm have been drawn here possibly in the hope of a miracle but certainly with the expectation of solace.

The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception and the Crypt of St Bernadette have been built above the Grotto where The apparitions of Mary took place in 1847. There are pilgrims from all over the world, many draped with blue or yellow sashes signifying their group. They file through the Grotto to touch the rock and are photographed in front of the Basilica. Outside this religious rite there is rampant commercialization. Try 50c for a disposable plastic cup to drink from a fountain or the shop outrageously named St Laurence O'Tooles'.

On our bike and on our way to Millau. This is no religious site but the place where the worlds highest bridge (viaduc) and arguably the most attractive has been built. Designed by the famous English (that must have riled a few of the French) Architect Sir Norman Foster and opened in 2004 this creation of modern man is simply stunning. We approach via a northern "D" road late in the evening and catch glimpses of the 'sails' as we draw near. Our hotel room in the town of Millau affords a view of the masts at night from our bedroom window. Next day we visit the viewing points and take a run across the bridge with Jane holding the camera on video. It is impossible not to be impressed by this structure whose road deck stands at 270 metres above its base and the top of its masts at 343 metres. We are simply blown away. We have seen videos on the design and construction of the viaduc but to see and experience it is something else - truly a magnificent monument to modern mans' ingenuity.

We depart Millau on the D991  - the Canyon de la Dourbie and it is a fun piece of road with tight corners and a good surface. Time is against us however so we switch to the GPS to find a faster route to our next stop at Apt. Our love/hate affair with our GPS continues however and we find ourselves caught in heavy traffic around Nimes and Avignon. We have called our pre-booked hotel to advise that we will not be there by the 6pm deadline and are assured that a staff member will wait until 7.30pm. We find several French Hotels that close at 6pm with no on-site staff so potential travelers beware.

We arrive at 6.30pm to find the hotel closed with no response to the call buzzer or our phone calls. We talk to the proprietor of an adjacent hotel and through the language barrier manage to secure a room for the night and a lock up garage for the Gray Ghost. Our new host is a real character and the hotel delightful. If ever in Apt please stay at the Hotel Saint Anne, you will not be disappointed. We have seen our first lavender fields heading into Apt to remind us that we have returned to Provence, a region we enjoyed so much on our previous journey.