At a distance we pick up a splash of aqua. As we draw nearer the full extent of the Lake de Sainte Croix comes into view. The colour could only be matched by the pristine waters of the Great Barrier Reef. The lake is our opening to the Grand Canyon du Verdon and a roller coaster ride along some of the most stunning roads we have ridden. The road hugs the mountainside high above the lake and the Verdon River. Sometimes there are edge barriers, sometimes not. Some places the road undercuts the cliff face, others places it cuts tunnels through the rock. In some places the road cuts back so severely on itself that the magenta colored route path on the GPS screen resembles a fat lady with her legs together - there is no gap.
The road is not crowded but there are a lot of bikes and fortunately only a few motorhomes. It is hard to see how they could negotiate some of the tight turns. Our home for the night is a converted stone farm building in the small village of Comps - sur - Artuby. The building dates from the mid 18th century but is now a very comfortable hotel. The area does however have the world's highest density of flies - we should have packed our cork hats. The village is surrounded by hills and boasts a few heritage listed stone churches as well as communal wash troughs. We enjoyed a walk around this very interesting village.
Our trip continues North and East. We are at an elevation of approx 800 metres but the temperature remains warm. We are still absorbing the grandeur of yesterdays ride when we enter the equally spectacular Gorge de Daluis and its brilliantly coloured mountain Lake de Castillon. In some ways the road through this Gorge is more spectacular than yesterday as half way along its route the geography changes starkly from white to chocolate coloured rock. No doubt students of geology will know all of the technical jargon behind this phenomenon but is is striking to observe. This gorge is less traveled than its predecessor so we do not encounter any motorhomes but the motorcycling fraternity are certainly aware of its existence. There are bikes everywhere and as the corners are so tight and the price of a mistake fatal then everyone is riding within their limits. The area is surrounded with renewable pine forests so we do encounter logging trucks but there are adequate passing points and the drivers seem very understanding.
We break out of the Gorges at the sub-Alpine town of Guillaumes at an elevation of 850 metres. We have now joined the Route des Grande Alps. This network of connection roads which began its northward journey at the French Riviera town of Menton will take us all the way north to the shores of Lake Lausanne and the French border with Switzerland. We take a lunch break at a shaded cafe and observe what will become common place over the following few days - hordes of lycra clad cyclists. They are everywhere. The alps and the classic passes (Cols) are a magnet for them -it is for the same reasons that we are here.
Out of Guillaumes we commence our first major ascent towards the Col de La Cayolle at 2326 metres (higher than Mt Kosciuszko). We are competing for space on the road with the cyclists who are on their lung busting ascents. This is no place to be learning your riding technique on tight bends. Look through the hairpins, if clear of traffic take the full road. The fully laden Gray Ghost is down to first gear on some of the rising hairpins but she takes it all in her stride. A mandatory photo at the summit, then run down the other side. Absolutely exhilarating. Our stop for the night is a B&B in a Ski Village at Pra Laup. The owner has just installed a swimming pool with views across the mountains. What better way to finish a fantastic day of riding.
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