Sunday, 8 July 2012

Switzerland

If you study the geography of Switzerland you will understand that no journey is a simple case of joining A to B via a direct route. Despite the construction of (seemingly) hundreds of tunnels throughout the country, any journey must be planned around high mountains, deep valleys and endless lakes. After the exhilaration of the passes we settled for an 'easier' day to explore some of the more populated north of the country. This first involved us heading east over the Susten pass that we had traversed in the wet the previous evening. On that glorious sunny morning we were able to enjoy all of the sublime pleasures offered by its long sweeping corners, and tight hairpin bends. An absolute joy.

At Wassen we turned north towards Altdorf and then East again along the steepest valley we had traversed. This was spectacular riding. The road was quite narrow in places but lightly trafficked. We hung on the hillsides with near vertical drops to the valley floor hundreds of feet below. This is farming country so you need to be aware of farm vehicles and the debris on the road where cattle cross the road. The road leads over another pass, Klausen at 1952 metres. Jane is keeping count. As is sometimes the case on these passes there is a beautiful little roadside chapel for the traveler to take comfort.

Once out of the valley we swung north again to Glarus and a diversion up a narrow road to a beautiful Lake Klontaler that our host Mike had recommended. A great place for lunch at the Gastof beside the lake. We returned to the main 17 road north and almost immediately the country flattened - we were out of the Alps. We  entered the more densely populated and commercial hub of the country centered around the major city of Zurich. The civic and domestic architecture also changed for it lost that rustic timbered style that we have admired. Our focus was the lakeside town of Rapperswill on the northern shore of the Obersee. The historic section of the town has been preserved, there is a beautiful Church and attractive shaded lakeside with pleasure cruises on the lake. It is a type of mini Luzern but missing the steep mountains. We crossed a causeway over the Obersee and pointed the bike for home. The day had been hot and all of our jacket linings had been removed but this was reversed when we ran into a heavy early evening storm. It certainly broke the heat.

Mike had arranged a day off work on Friday, our last full day in Switzerland so he could show us some less traveled roads on his R1200R BMW. Angie would have joined us on her Honda Crossrunner but it was getting repaired after collecting a falling rock - a bit of a Swiss riding hazard not unlike Kangaroos in Australia and equally dangerous. Unfortunately the weather was not playing the game so we deferred to a mid morning start under grey skies with a light drizzle. As we tracked east past Interlaken towards Spiez the weather cleared and we ventured into the countryside not normally visited by tourists. This was rural Switzerland, very green, picturesque and relaxed. You can't travel Switzerland however without crossing passes and this day was no exception but with a twist. As we ascended towards the Gerendacherli pass we entered cloud under a light drizzle. The red taillight on Mike's BMW was barely visible at about 20 feet so thick was the cloud. At the summit in true understated fashion Mike announced that there was a magnificent view of the lake and mountains from here - apparently. We descended to the Schwarzee (or Black Lake) and dined at the rather inappropriately named Hotel Bad on its shore.

As we turned for home the cloud thickened and the skies opened in what had become a bit of an afternoon Swiss tradition for us. We had been invited to dinner and Angie prepared a traditional Swiss meal for our 'last supper'. Good food, good company, a few beers and talk of the days (and weeks) riding. A great night and deserving a special thanks to our wonderful hosts Angie & Mike who made our stay in Switzerland so enjoyable. Their house affords terrific views across the mountains and a waterfall, it is well placed in relation to Interlaken and Andermatt and is an ideal base for any bikers wanting to explore this beautiful country. Contact us for details if you are planning to visit Switzerland.

We departed Saturday with the Grey Ghost once again assuming her role as a beast of burden. We traversed Susten and Oberalp passes heading north-east but at a subdued pace with the extra 40kg of luggage on board. It was  a brilliant bright day and seemingly everyone who owned a bike was out and about. At Chur we turned south over the Julier and Bernina Passes to the millionaires playground of St Moritz. As we dropped down into the valley we were greeted by the sight of kite surfers on the lake. They looked like a hundred colored flies descending on a picnic lunch. In St Moritz we expected plenty of flash cars, outfits, jewellery and designer boutiques and in those respects we were not disappointed. But St Moritz still maintains its natural and artificial attractions and we enjoyed the beauty of its setting by the lake, its Architecture and an impromptu practice session from musicians playing the traditional Swiss long horns by the lake.

From here it was a short run across the border into Italy and our home for the next few days in the Bormio Valley. Farewell to Switzerland you have been wonderful.
 





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